t was only June, and the year was already on the top of my list as one of the worst years in my life. Within the time frame of three months, we unexpectedly and tragically lost four special people. Four deaths in three months, including my father, and then our beloved German Shepherd passed away. All so sudden, all so tragic, all so unexpected. Death didn’t seem to end. All the loss and grief had stolen almost every fiber of happiness I had left, and my faith in people hung on by a thread. I needed healing. A place to go to get back in touch with myself and stop the waves of grief, if only for a short while. I needed somewhere to rejuvenate, and La Paz offered everything I was looking for, so we booked the cabin, packed up our bags, and headed to the Pineywoods of Deep East Texas.
The minute we pulled into the drive, I knew we had found a little piece of heaven. A true secret gem.
We turned off County Road 51 and followed La Paz’s driveway underneath the towering pines to the main house. An immediate sense of peace and tranquility washed over me as we rolled up the drive. I opened my window and the scent of the forest rushed into the truck. The sweet aroma of the pines filled the cab and danced around me. I beamed. It had been far too long since I inhaled the forest’s fragrance. I breathed in the aromatic air and kept my head poked out the window with a wide grin plastered on my face.
“You’re smiling,” my husband said.
I turned toward him, still grinning. “I am.”
“I like that.” He reached across the console and squeezed my hand. “It’s been a while.”
Still smiling, I shoved my head back out the window.
Remote. Isolated. A healing escape.
In awe and wonder, I soaked in the beauty of my surroundings and gazed up at the magnificent trees surrounding us. “I cannot believe this place.” I grinned and shifted toward my husband. It had been weeks since I smiled like that, weeks since I felt happiness simmer inside me. The suffocating weight of all my stress and grief lightened. “This is perfect.” My gaze fixed on the cabin we were to stay in for the next two nights, and excitement zipped through me at the hidden gem we discovered. We found a little piece of heaven. I was eager to settle in our hideaway at La Paz Bed and Breakfast.
When we stopped, I slipped out of the truck and clicked the door closed. All at once, the silence enveloped me. No roar of traffic, no buzz of people… not one barking dog. Nothing. Just exquisite silence. Not a single sound of the city polluted my ears. I closed my eyes and listened. A few feet away, a woodpecker drummed against a tree in a rhythmic rap. As I listened, I only heard the breeze whispering through the trees, the birds singing their merry melodies, and the chorus of the insects. The symphony of nature surrounded me. I thought I stood in the middle of Heaven.
I opened my eyes and discovered my husband watching me, smiling, and the look of concern he constantly held for me anymore slipped away. He linked his fingers with mine and we headed inside the main house to check-in. Little did I know, La Paz was about to become my greatest gift this year.
The Bed and Breakfast
Tucked away in the Pineywoods of Deep East Texas, and on the bank of the Angelina River, La Paz Bed and Breakfast provides a peaceful and serene get-a-away. On 8.5 acres, and surrounded by the Angelina National Forest, it’s one of East Texas’ best-kept secrets. A rare gem one doesn’t stumble across often.
Paul Smith and his wife, Anne Allison-Smith, own La Paz Bed and Breakfast. When she was nine, Anne began sketching her dream home, and forty-seven years later, her drawings became the elegant La Paz Bed and Breakfast. Built in 2009, the main house is a three-story, 1900s-style farmhouse with a wide wrap-around porch. The dreamy porch invites you to settle in one of the rocking chairs and enjoy the serenity surrounding you. We received a private tour of the main house and the Little White House, and the beauty of the home is mesmerizing.
Near Jasper, Texas, the B&B is located just below the gates of the Sam Rayburn Reservoir and the Angelina River flows wide right out of La Paz’s door. You can sit in the cabin or on the porch and watch the sun glisten off the river and great blue herons glide over the water. This extension of the Big Thicket is a paradise you won’t forget.
La Paz is the perfect location to enjoy Sam Rayburn Lake. The nearest boat ramp is a mere ten-minute drive away, and it is a five-minute drive to the nearest lakeside park. We hopped up the road numerous times and enjoyed time at the reservoir.
La Paz offers two private lodging options, the Log Cabin, and the Little White House, and two elegant guest suites in the main house, Mama’s Room, and The Pullman Room. Each suite has a unique design and a private bath. We chose the cabin for more privacy and complete tranquility.
Amenities
- Complimentary Wi-Fi
- Wii games
- Karaoke
- Flat screen TVs with satellite and DVD capabilities
- A DVD library of over 300 titles
- BeeKind™ luxurious bath and body products
- Soft Cypress microfiber shawl robes
- Super thick and fluffy Turkish towels
- Egyptian cotton sheets
- Private Baths
- Kayaks and canoes
- Life vests and paddles
Breakfast
The made-from-scratch gourmet breakfast kept us satisfied well past lunch. Served at the main house in the luxurious dining room at 8:30 a.m., the meal was magnificent. Our breakfast started with vanilla yogurt sprinkled with granola and blueberries. Crème brûlée French toast followed with fluffy scrambled eggs, the best crunchy bacon that will ever fill your mouth, and an assortment of vibrant fruit: kiwis, strawberries, bananas, cantaloupe, pineapple, watermelon, blackberries, and raspberries. A lovely, yet scrumptious plate, and the best breakfasts I’ve ever had—ever. Simply divine.
As we dined, we enjoyed the dining room adorned with gorgeous antique furniture, dainty glassware, and elegant décor. Paul was such a warm and inviting host, just exceptional. We enjoyed our conversations with Paul, and we could have stayed and chatted with him all day. I really loved talking with Paul and learning about the area. His engaging and informative conversations made for such an enjoyable dining experience. He was just a genuine pleasure, and he made the meal so memorable and so delightful. Our conversations with Paul reminded me that people still cared, and genuine, good people still existed. I’ll never forget our breakfast at La Paz. I think about it to this day.
The Cabin
In Spanish, La Paz means “peace,” and peace is what we discovered at the cabin; a peace one doesn’t encounter much in day-to-day life. There are so many things to love about the charming cabin. From the moment I stepped inside, and the screen door squeaked closed behind me, it felt like home. I just adored the cabin. I truly did. I never wanted to leave that peaceful cabin in the woods.
The 119-year-old cabin has a fascinating history. Built in 1901 from hand-hewn logs in Shelby County, the cabin moved to its current location in 1988. To move the cabin, the owners numbered the logs and tore it down, then rebuilt it where it now sits along the bank of the Angelina River. They completed the addition of the kitchen, loft, and bathroom after the relocation in 1988.
As we settled in, Paul brought us a wonderful tray full of delicious hummus, crackers, sweet grapes, and an assortment of nuts, along with nut-filled, fresh, homemade chocolate chip cookies, which were so delicious. And for the wine enthusiast, they offer a bottle of wine to complement the tray.
The charming cabin offered all the comforts of home. You didn’t lack for anything while you stayed. The kitchen was equipped with a refrigerator, stovetop, microwave, coffeemaker, and broiler oven. Everything you need to prepare any meal. They provided all plate ware, silverware, cups, cooking pots and utensils. Outside there is a gas grill and a charcoal grill for more cooking options, and even a fire pit for roasting marshmallows.
Up in the loft, we discovered the comfiest, full-size bed with the softest linens. The cozy living room and the dining room offered unobstructed views of the river. We settled in the homey rooms and just enjoyed one another without any of life’s interruptions. It was magical.
The cabin has two porches, ideal for the nature lover. I cannot tell you how much I loved sitting on the back porch, pondering life, and watching the river. I witnessed many a bird squabble and just enjoyed all the nature surrounding me. There was no greater blessing than unplugging from this crazy world.
In the riverside yard, hammocks hung in the trees, a fire pit awaited lighting, and a picnic table sat near the river surrounded by lights for nighttime sitting.
After a day of exploring, there was nothing more relaxing than a bubble bath and a deep, hot soak in the clawfoot tub. It was beyond wonderful.
The enchanting nights left me with some wonderful memories of the cabin. One night, just as we headed out for some star shots, we received a magical show.
Once the sun dipped below the horizon and darkness settled over the river, the concert of the frogs and insects began. With the nightly serenade in full force, we headed to the riverside deck, camera, and tripod in hand. In the warm, lazy night, glimmers of light sparkled.
“Baby, look. A firefly!” I stopped and reached for my husband’s arm, then pointed toward the trees.
A lone firefly blinked a bright yellow-green light. Its taillight sent out periodic winks. It wasn’t long before another firefly answered the blink and another and another until flashes of bright yellow-green lights filled the trees. Soon, dozens flashed their lights on and off in perfect unison, creating a magnificent symphony of light. The lights of the lightning bugs filled the trees and hovered along the river in a magnificent show. Across the bank, lights flashed, creating another captivating production of magical light. They surrounded the dock and floated above the river, dancing across to the other side. Their lights blinked on and off as the stars rose high in the sky.
As I stood in the trees, the fireflies surrounded me in a fairylike show. They hovered right in front of me, inches out of reach, floating along as I made my way to the riverside. Never in my life have lightning bugs so surrounded me. Standing in those trees with the fireflies encircling me reminded me how much magic was left in this world, how much good I had yet to discover and yet to see. I will never forget those nights at La Paz and the enchanting fireflies.
There is a magicalness to La Paz. A magicalness words cannot describe.
The Cabin Grounds
The Angelina River is just a few steps from La Paz’s door. Named after a Hasinai Indian girl whom Spanish missionaries called Angelina, the Angelina River is the only river in Texas named after a woman. In fact, Angelina is the only woman in Texas to have a Texas river, a county, and a national forest named for her. Most Texans are unaware of Angelina and the role she played in Texas history. For more information about Angelina, click here.
When you rent the cabin, you have a private riverside deck and floating dock on the banks of the Angelina River. I just loved this feature about the cabin. You can sit on the deck or dock for hours enjoying the river, the animals, and nature.
I found so much healing on that dock. We watched beautiful sunrises and breathtaking sunsets, and for hours in the middle of the night, we photographed and gazed at the millions of stars. From the time the sun peaked up to the morning horizon to when it slipped away for darkness, we enjoyed hours on the dock and made countless memories.
There is something about nature and healing. It does something for us that little else can. It washes away some of the grief and makes those wounds hurt a little less. It brings a sense of self back to us. I found a lot of healing in the silence of the mornings just before the sun rose and the world woke around us. We sat on the dock and watched the sun rise over the river as it flooded the horizon with streaks of pink and purple, then filled the morning with a golden glow. I lost myself in the beauty of it all. I’ll never forget a moment of it.
We experienced so much laughter on that dock. I still laugh at the images of my husband chasing after the lens cap for our camera and almost diving headfirst into the water. The cap rolled from him out of reach, and he stumbled forward, attempting to rescue it before it disappeared into the water.
The commotion caused the dock to rock under us like we were on a carnival ride. I held on and couldn’t stop laughing.
“You know it’s just a cap.” I continued laughing as he gained his footing. “We can replace it.” His expression made me laugh harder as he held the rescued cap up in the air. “It’s not worth me having to dive in and help you out of the water.” My husband swam like a rock. “We’d both drown.”
A grin cracked across his face and we both laughed until our stomachs hurt.
Occasionally, a boat passed by as we lounged. The wake from the boat rocked the dock up and down so fast we just lied there and enjoyed the ride, laughing like children. We reveled in the feelings of pure joy from the simple things on that trip.
In life, it’s always about the little things.
From the dock, we observed many birds, great blue herons, and even river otters. Turtles floated at the surface, watching us with a careful eye, and fish jumped from the water all around us. We scanned the water with every plop or plink, but most of the time, we only caught the ripples left behind by the elusive jumping fish. Sometimes, we got lucky and caught sight of a fish flying out of the water before it disappeared.
The pine-scented air offered a complete stillness—a stillness that brought peace and tranquility. Lying with our eyes closed while the river gently bobbed us up and down, we listened to the calls of the blue jays and the songs on the cardinals. So many birds sang, and a woodpecker rapped against the tree along the bank. A chorus of nature surrounded us. We delighted in the buzz of the bugs and the occasional splash of a critter breaking the water as it either jumped or swam away. The water lapped against the dock and the riverbank, at times, almost lulling us to sleep.
The Grounds of La Paz
After we settled in the cabin, we explored the magical grounds. On 8.5 acres, La Paz offers so much to discover. As we meandered under the towering trees with pine needles and twigs crunching under our feet, we discovered creative art pieces placed here and there. Each piece perfectly displayed in its location. From a whimsical trio of frogs to an eye-catching world globe, we found every piece fascinating, and some a delightful surprise.
While we explored, sunlight filtered through the trees, sending rays shining down throughout the forest. The air was so still, so tranquil, I felt as if I stood in another world. A comfortable silence fell between us as we walked. I turned my attention to the sights and sounds around me. A dragonfly hovered nearby and landed on a broad, green leaf. He rested for a moment before he flew away, out of sight. Watching him, the questions I pondered about life anymore rushed to me. I had so many things I no longer understood, and so many questions simmered in the corners of my mind. As I grew older, I thought I would understand more about people. I was never more wrong. I cannot say I discovered all the answers to my questions, but I can say I found peace and acceptance to what I no longer understood, and La Paz helped me find the acceptance I so desperately needed.
Walking through the woods, stress fell away from my shoulders, layer by layer, dissolving the heavy weight I had carried for so long. The suffocating band of grief released its grip. I felt free from my grief, able to breathe again, able to enjoy the moment with my husband. The weight that I carried no longer distracted me. All my attention belonged to him, and nothing pulled me away from him. Nothing.
On our last night, after we returned from exploring, we encountered a fox, studying us from across the way. He stood with his ears perked high and his paws planted on a fallen tree. His curious gaze fixed on us. I stared back at him, curious, too. He was a beautiful creature. I’ve come across many foxes in my lifetime, but this guy mesmerized me with his presence. He reminded me of the magic and beauty of the wild. The magic and beauty I so greatly missed. Before I went inside, I glanced back to where the fox stood. He held my gaze a moment before he turned and trotted away into the night. Then I knew everything would be okay. I’d ride my waves of grief, but I would be okay. I turned back to the cabin and stepped inside, and as the screen door shut behind me, I smiled.
In the End
I needed an escape, an escape to nowhere. I needed nature and renewal. La Paz gave me all of that and so much more. I loved the solitude. I loved the peace of La Paz. There was something healing about sitting on that dock, watching the river flow, and birds glide by as turtles peeked at us from the surface of the water. La Paz made me feel relaxed and connected to life again. It made me feel more like myself than I had felt in almost six months. It lifted a heavy weight from my soul and helped wipe away my sorrow. La Paz gave me three days of pure magic, and that was something only La Paz could do.
Our days passed quickly, but we made many cherished memories, and we had days filled with laughter, adventure, and tranquility. I cannot remember the last time we laughed so much from the joy of one another—a priceless gift from La Paz.
On our last day, we sat on the back porch, swinging on the porch swing, gazing out at the river. A great blue heron glided across the water and landed on a fallen tree, and a giant mud turtle—I think the biggest one I’ve ever seen—floated at the surface. Glints of sunlight danced across the river like golden coins as the morning sun rose higher. The birds sang their melodies, a woodpecker continued his rapping close by, and an angry blue jay scolded from across the way. I savored the sounds of nature one last time.
My husband pushed off from the swing. “Are you ready?”
“No, but I guess it’s time.” I breathed in the sweet smell of the pines and rose from the swing. “I’ll pack up my camera.”
It was with a heavy heart I said goodbye and packed up to leave. I’ll never forget La Paz. I needed La Paz more than I realized. It gave me a gift when I needed it the most. It gave me the gift of peace. The gift of normalcy. The gift of self. The gift of healing—a priceless gift I shall cherish forever.
