Take Me Back to Terlingua
Terlingua, Texas. Remote. Unspoiled. A desert town with a population of fifty-eight that isn’t on the way to anywhere. I’m not sure what I thought when I first arrived as I soaked in my surroundings and studied the unique terrain. There’s only a touch of humanity seen. No people. No fast-food restaurants, no Starbucks, no Walmart. No congested roads, no traffic. The scatter of a few buildings blended into the desert, and you had to search to discover some of them. And it was quiet, so quiet. The silence caught my attention immediately. The world was different here, so foreign I felt as if I fell off the map. I was off the grid. Had I stepped back in time?
We were to spend the next four days and three nights in this remote desert, exploring Terlingua, Big Bend National Park, and the surrounding area, but after I stepped out of the Jeep, I wasn’t sure about any of it. We hadn’t been to the desert before, and we had little experience with this arid country. I kept asking myself, did we choose the wrong place for our get-away? What could be here? I just couldn’t shake the feeling that someone plopped me in the middle of an abandoned movie set.
What draws us into the desert is the search for something intimate in the remote. — Edward Abbey
Little did I know, four days later, I would be so in love with Terlingua and that stunning desert, I’d be heartbroken to leave. And I discovered, so much was there, a hidden gem full of treasure and tranquility. From Terlingua Ghost Town to the trails of Big Bend National Park, the land revealed its glorious and hidden wonders, and graced us with an understated beauty that will stay with me forever.
A Brief History
Terlingua is home to the historic Chisos Mining Company established in 1903 and founded by Howard E. Perry, a Chicago industrialist. During the next three decades, it became one of the nation’s leading producers of quicksilver. However, production declined during the 1930s. On October 1, 1942, the Chisos Mining Company filed for bankruptcy. People abandoned the mines and the town, leaving Terlingua a ghost town.
Today, tourism has played a significant role in breathing life back into Terlingua. Nestled next to Big Bend National Park, visitors travel to Terlingua’s door. And since 1967, Terlingua is the site of the famous and exclusive championship chili cook off that draws over 10,000 “chili heads” from all over the world on the first Saturday every November. It’s deemed the “Chili Cook Off Capital of the World.” You can discover more information about the Annual CASI Terlingua International Chili Championship here.
The Adventure
Our adventure started in Terlingua and continued in Big Bend National Park. First stop, Terlingua Ghost Town and Cemetery, then back to base camp at Far Flung Outdoor Center until the next day.
The moment we explored the ruins of Terlingua, I fell in love with the desert and all that I discovered there and in Big Bend National Park. The hesitancy I felt when I first arrived vanished as I explored the ruins of Terlingua Ghost Town and the cemetery. My trepidation turned into excitement as we uncovered a world that filled me with wonder. I no longer questioned our choice to explore the desert. I was ready for a grand adventure.
Terlingua Ghost Town
After the mining ceased, the residents of Terlingua walked away from their homes and left everything. Today, you can wander through the primitive landscape and explore the ruins of the Chisos Mining Company, a historic church, and the remnants of abandoned homes.
I explored in wonder and attempted to imagine life here years ago, during the peak of cinnabar mining. I found it difficult to image Terlingua bustling with 2,000 people. Today, I still wonder what life must have been like for the miners that called Terlingua their home.
I encourage others to have this rare experience. There’s something about wandering through a desert ghost town. One cannot compare such an experience to other experiences in life, and the ghost town offered incredible views of the canyon. The beauty surrounds you.
Terlingua Cemetery
Terlingua Cemetery is one of the most photographed cemeteries in the country. You will discover the small and humble cemetery along the downhill slope of the Terlingua Ghost Town. One won’t find any elaborate grave sites among the graves that date back to 1903. Haphazard wooden crosses, simple stonework, and small grottoes with handmade adornments fill this historic burial spot. Makeshift graves and folk art dominate the memorials and offer captivating insight into Terlingua’s past. It’s a frontier graveyard still in use today.
The cemetery is the final resting place for miners who succumbed to mining accidents, mercury poisonings, and others who lost the fight during the 1918 flu epidemic.
Every year, during the Mexican celebration of the Day of the Dead, the cemetery transforms and comes to life into a blast of colors from streamers, candles, and flowers with the backdrop of the stunning Chisos Mountains and the Sierra del Carmens beyond, which is an unforgettable sight.
After we left the cemetery and headed down the road to Far Flung Outdoor Center, I spotted Santa Elena Canyon far in the distance. My heart flipped in my chest, twice, at the awe-inspiring sight. The canyon, miles away, beckoned me to explore. The following morning couldn’t get there soon enough, so I could wander the shady depths of the 1,500-foot cliffs. I was ready to journey into the desert and see what other gems we would discover. And what a gem the journey was and what a discovery we had.
Dining
There are a few establishments to choose from in Terlingua for your dining pleasure. You won’t find any McDonald’s, Taco Bell, Wendy’s, or any fast-food signs saturating the scenery. Here, you’ll find privately owned eateries that have a distinctive and personal touch, not cookie-cutter chains with no ambience. The privately owned and one-of-a-kind restaurants offered more personable service and a pleasurable dining experience.
During our time in Terlingua, we dined at La Kiva and Big Bend Resort & Adventures Café.
La Kiva
A semi-subterranean hideaway with stone walls and eclectic decor. A desert oasis with a checkered past.
After spending the day hiking eleven miles in 101-degree heat under an unrelenting sun, the underground restaurant ended the day perfectly.
Once you arrive, you enter through a giant wooden door, then descend into the semi-subterranean hideaway. When we stepped inside, the cool air and soft lighting felt like a welcoming oasis after our day in the desert. The rock walls, up to four feet thick, wood beams, eclectic décor, and patrons, made for a unique atmosphere. We had a wonderful and memorable experience. If you have a wait for your table, I encourage you to explore the bar and patio or dance with the locals.
La Kiva offers a simple menu, mainly BBQ, burgers, and pizza. They served excellent food, cold drinks, and the service wasn’t bad considering the crowd. The iconic and eccentric restaurant had a friendly, yet mysterious, atmosphere, and a warm ambience. For entertainment, a band of two interesting gentlemen performed live music, then karaoke followed later.
La Kiva, another unexpected and unique gem. I highly recommend a visit to this eclectic and magical paradise. It will be an experience you will not forget.
Big Bend Resort & Adventures Café
Big Bend Resort & Adventures Café is a small-town café with a wonderful, homey, and casual atmosphere. Located inside a convenience store, the café offers a variety of American food choices, fantastic prices, and exceptional service. At the ice cream bar, one can get an old-fashioned shake or sundae for dessert. We enjoyed our meal and our visit.
Accommodations
During our time in Terlingua and Big Bend National Park, we lodged at Far Flung Outdoor Center. When you travel to the area, I cannot recommend Far Flung enough for your stay. It’s a pleasurable experience and the perfect place to return after a day of adventure. You can enjoy the remoteness of the desert, then put your feet up at a place with all the comforts and convenience of home.
There are other small motels in town, and if you are looking for a unique and rustic experience, Airbnb is the way to go. From teepees to mud huts, Terlingua offers unique and memorable accommodations.
In the End...
I fell in love.
Terlingua. Remote. Unspoiled. Adventurous. You can feel nature everywhere around you. I wanted to be off the grid, lost out in the wilderness, and that’s exactly what I got to do. I loved the remoteness. I loved being disconnected. I loved all of it. Terlingua is where you want to be when you want away from it all. Here, people come to get lost, not found. It’s defined by its solitude and is difficult to forget.
I encourage you, journey to Terlingua. Stay awhile. Disappear from the rest of the world. You won’t regret the experience.
As we drove away, I whispered to Danny, “Please, take me back to Terlingua… and soon.”
Visiting Terlingua
- Almost to the Mexican border, it is near the Rio Grande and the villages of Lajitas and Study Butte, Texas, as well as the Mexican state of Chihuahua.
- Only eight miles from Big Bend National Park and a 15-minute drive to the entrance.
Travel and Wander…
